Does Punch Sulzberger have a stake in Channing Daughters Winery? We’re starting to think so. This weekend’s headline in The Time’s: “Excitement in a Bottle”. The Times isn’t known for hyperbole, so when they throw down statements like that—especially after so recently saying things like this—you have to wonder what’s going on.
“Its grape-growing, grape-buying and experimental cellar work has made Channing Daughters the East End’s most cutting-edge estate. Its winemaker, James Christopher Tracy, who is also a partner, brings his sensibility as a trained chef to blends that are exciting when they succeed and interesting even when they do not.”
Translation: good even when they’re not so good. Wine writing tends toward the floral, so rather than critique we’ll just pluck the choicest phrases from the vine (sorry, had to be done):
“appetite-whetting … lightly herbaceous and delivers a kiwi-like bite … though disjointed … provocative … splashy, spicy and raisiny … meditation wine, designed to woo the intellect as well as the digestive system … a liquid fruit salad … “
Limit of two bottles per walk-in customer so move fast.
Excitement in a Bottle [NYT]
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